It’s been
yet another week of hats, so let’s talk vocabulary and then conservation:
Seam allowance: The area between the edge of a piece
of fabric and the seam or line of stitching that attaches it to at least one
more layer of fabric or material. Ultimately this extra fabric allows for a
garment to be let out, if need be.
Millinery: Essentially, hat-making – often
specifically for a female clientele base. We’re not talking beanies and
baseball caps, though. To get a more (stereo)typical idea of millinery, think
of the hats that are associated with women at horse races. Or, you know, even
the things that Lady Gaga wears on her head from time to time.
Grosgrain: A kind of ribbon characterized by
its relative stiffness and ribbed texture/pattern, which is often used in
millinery.
(Bear with
me, and eventually we’ll get to how this ties into conservation.)
If I hadn’t
mentioned before, the FHCC is a specialized space. We use dimmable lights,
maintain a generally chilly temperature, handle items with gloves, etc. Not
only that, but our “closet space” actually runs on a track so that each aisle
can be open and shut by turning a wheel – successfully eliminating more light
from getting to garments that we aren’t looking at or using. We use
archival-quality tissue and non-acidic tags with brass safety pins, we use
pencil rather than ink…ultimately, we do the absolute best we can with our
resources to make sure that the things we are given are stored in a healthy
way.
And while
sticking a pin into a garment may seem rather unhealthy, we’re taught to put them into the “safest” places. For
example, many garments have a seam allowance that provides a great spot to put
a pin for a tag, as it doesn’t interfere with any visible part of the
item/won’t cause harm. Think about the inside of a pant leg or sleeve. In the
case of hats, however, it’s not that simple. This is where the grosgrain comes
in. Luckily for us, grosgrain ribbon is a popular material for the inside bands
of hats, and provides a perfect material to pin into. It’s an intern’s dream,
really.
But I’m not
always so lucky. Sometimes I can’t find a good place to put a pin, and in that
case I will either reach out to someone else for advice, or I will simply put
the tag in the most accessible place and forgo a pin. With hats, this can often
end up being the case. If not pinned, a tag will be placed in the hat between
the shape-holding puffs of tissue and the hat itself. I often find myself
pining for just a little grosgrain or
something…
Anyhow,
I’ve gotten to look at quite a variety of hats in the past 3 days, with the
oldest being around 200 years old! (Look for a light brown straw bonnet
with a dark brown ribbon.) Here are my favorites/most noted:
~~~~
On another
note, it is so sad to hear of Oscar de la Renta’s death. The fashion world has
lost one of its superstars and its “Sultan of Suave”. His legacy will live on
through his beautiful designs. Our Collections Manager pulled this piece for
the Facebook page and I thought I’d share it, too. This gorgeous silk jacket is
from his Fall Ready-to-Wear collection in 1989.
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